Showing posts with label Free patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Free patterns. Show all posts

Free crochet pattern - Cheeky Kitty

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Here comes my new free amigurumi pattern for a wide-eyed and playful little kitten. I created the Cheeky Kitty pattern for a recently published amigurumi bookazine called "Adorable Animals: Cute Crocheted Characters" (published in UK) where it was featured with 11 other cute and easy amigurumi patterns. You can get your copy of the bookazine from MyHobbyStore.

The story of this kitten started already 1.5 years ago when I crocheted two stripey cats as baby rattles. After that the kitten "evolved" a little - I wanted to keep the smiling face and big eyes but changed the concept of the body (blog post about animal baby rattles). The publisher of the bookazine contacted me last fall and asked me if I would be interested in writing a pattern for the amigurumi publication. She loved the kitten's wide eyes and cheeky expression and we decided that I make a pattern for this kitten.    

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Siit tuleb minu uus tasuta heegeldamise juhend, mille järgi saab teha omale suurte silmadega vahva kassipoja. Ma kirjutasin selle kiisu mustri Inglismaal ilmunud amigurumi eriväljaandele "Võluvad loomad: armsad heegeldatud tegelased", milles peale minu kassipoja mustri võib leida veel 11 vahvat ja lihtsat loomade heegeldamise juhendit. 

Selle kassipoja lugu sai alguse juba umbes 1,5 aastat tagasi, kui heegeldasin kaks triibulist kassi beebikõrinateks. Peale seda arendasin kassipoega natuke edasi. Mulle meeldisid tema suured silmad ja naeratav nägu ning jätsin need alles, kuid muutsin keha kuju (kirjutasin sellest oma postituses beebide loomakõrinatest). Kui selle amigurumi väljaande kirjastaja minuga ühendust võttis, siis meeldisid talle just selle kiisupoja suured silmad ja näoilme, nii et olin nõus kassipoja mustri ajakirja jaoks üles kirjutama.   

It is an easy pattern and suitable also for beginners. The finished amigurumi cat is about 11 cm (4.3") tall if you use similar yarn and crochet hook. You can make smaller or larger cats by using bulkier or finer yarn. Do not forget to adjust the crochet hook accordinlgy. You can make the cat also without the stripes, for this just ignore the colour changes and continue with the same yarn. Have fun and I hope you enjoy the pattern!

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See on lihtne muster ja sobib hästi ka algajale amigurumi sõbrale. Kui kasutada sama jämedusega lõnga ning heegelnõela, tuleb kassipoja pikkuseks umbes 11 cm. Väiksema või suurema kassi saab teha siis vastavalt kasutades peenemat või jämedamat lõnga. Kindlasti vali siis ka lõngale vastava jämedusega heegelnõel ning kohanda ka silmade suurust. Kassi võib heegeldada muidugi ka ilma triipudeta, siis lihtsalt ignoreeri lõngavahetust ning jätka sama lõngaga. Eestikeelse heegeldamise juhendi leiad täitsa lõpus. Toredat heegeldamist ja ma loodan, et see muster meeldib! 

Pattern

Important! It is prohibited to sell the pattern, you are welcome to share the pattern on your website or blog if you credit Smartapple Creations as the designer and add a link to my website http://smartapplecreations.blogspot.com. If you would like to translate the pattern, you need to ask for my permission first. You may sell the finished items made according to the pattern. 

Notes about this pattern
- Crochet in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds with slip stitch or turn unless stated otherwise.
- Crochet through both loops.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end of the round. Move the stitch marker after finishing each round.
- Crochet the toy with tight stitches. To avoid small holes use a smaller crochet hook.

Skills you will need 
Magic ring, crocheting in rounds, chain stitch, slip stitch, single crochet stitch, half double crochet stitch, double crochet stitch, invisible decreasing, increasing.

Materials and tools you will need
- This toy was crocheted with DROPS Muskat: DK, light worsted yarn (1.8 oz (50 g) = approx 109 yds (100 m)). You will need approximately:
      76 yds / 70 m colour A
      10 yds / 9 m of colour B
      10 yds / 9 m of colour C
- Pink embroidery floss
- Green slit pupil safety eyes (size 18 mm)
- Polyester fibrefill (or stuffing of your choice)
- Crochet hook 2.5 mm
- Stitch marker, scissors, some sewing pins and a yarn needle

Abbreviations
Pattern is written using standard US crocheting terms.
Rnd – Round
ch – chain stitch
slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet stitch
hdc – half double crochet stitch
dc – double crochet stitch
st, sts – stitch, stitches
(N) – number of stitches after finishing this round
chN – make N chain stitches
Nsc - crochet one sc in the following N stitches
[…] xN – repeat instructions described in the brackets N times in that round
inc – increase (make 2 single crochet stitches in indicated stitch)
dec – invisible decrease (crochet next 2 stitches together into 1 stitch by picking up the front loops of two sts and crocheting one sc into both loops)

Ears (make 2)
With colour A
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 3 sc and tighten the loop (3)
Rnd 2: [inc] x3 (6)
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x3 (9)
Rnd 4: [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
Rnd 5: [sc, inc, 2sc] x3 (15)
Rnd 6: [inc, 4sc] x3 (18)
Flatten the ear and crochet the opening shut with 8 slst through front loops (See pictures 1 and 2). Fasten off and leave a long tail (20 cm / 8 inches) for sewing.    




Head 
With colour A. Start to crochet the head from the top.
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12)
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x6 (18)
Rnd 4: [2sc, inc] x6 (24)
Rnd 5: [sc, inc, 2sc] x6 (30)
Rnd 6: [inc, 4sc] x6 (36)
Rnd 7: [2sc, inc, 3sc] x6 (42)
Rnd 8: [4sc, inc, 2sc] x6 (48)
Rnd 9 – Rnd 17: sc in each st (48)
Rnd 18: [dec, 6sc] x6 (42)
Rnd 19: [2sc, dec, 3sc] x6 (36)
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, leaving 8 sts (7 holes) between the safety eyes. Fasten the safety eyes with washers tightly secured  inside the head.
Rnd 20: [4sc, dec] x6 (30)
Rnd 21: [sc, dec, 2sc] x6 (24)
Rnd 22: [dec, 2sc] x6 (18)
Stuff the head. 

Position the ears to the sides between rounds 4 and 11 and attach them with some sewing pins first to find the right placement (See picture 3). Sew the ears on to the head.
Embroider the nose with pink embroidery floss between the eyes (See picture 4). Make small horizontal stitches to form the nose. Try to make the stitches the same length and very close to each other. Draw the yarn tight after every stitch and try to maintain an even tension. 
Start to embroider the mouth below the nose from the middle. Make a vertical stitch over 3 rounds and draw the yarn tight. Bring the needle up where you want the mouth to begin and insert the needle where the mouth ends (See picture 5). Draw the yarn to form a smiling mouth. Fix the shape of the mouth with small stitches along the mouth (See picture 6). 

Add some more stuffing if needed.

Rnd 23: [sc, dec] x6 (12)
Rnd 24: [dec] x6 (6)
Fasten off and hide the yarn end inside the head. 

Body
With colour A
Start to crochet the body from the bottom.
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12)
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x6 (18)
Rnd 4: [2sc, inc] x6 (24)
Rnd 5: [sc, inc, 2sc] x6 (30)
Rnd 6: [inc, 4sc] x6 (36)
Change the colour to colour B with the last sc of Rnd 6. For that insert the hook through the last st, pull up a colour A loop, colour B yarn over and pull it through colour A loops.  
Rnd 7 – Rnd 8: sc in each st (36)
Change the colour to colour C with the last st of Rnd 8. 
Rnd 9: [dec, 4sc] x6 (30)
Rnd 10: sc in each st (30)
Change the colour to colour B with the last st of Rnd 10.
Rnd 11: sc in each st (30)
Rnd 12: [2sc, dec, sc] x6 (24)
Change the colour to colour A with the last st of Rnd 12. Fasten all the loose yarn ends inside the body. 
Rnd 13: sc in each st (24)
Rnd 14: [dec, 6sc] x3 (21)
Stuff the body. 
Fasten off and leave a long tail (30 cm / 12 inches) for sewing.

Front legs (make 2)
With colour A
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc, 2sc] x2 (8)
Rnd 3 – Rnd 8: sc in each st (8)
Stuff the leg. Use scissors or something pointy to insert the stuffing. Do not add stuffing to the very top of the leg (Rnd 8).
Rnd 9: [dec, 2sc] x2 (6)
Flatten the top of the leg and crochet the opening shut with 3 sc. Fasten off and leave a long tail (20 cm / 8 inches) for sewing.    

Back legs (make 2)
With colour A
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc, sc] x3 (9)
Rnd 3 – Rnd 8: sc in each st (9)
Stuff the leg. Use scissors or something pointy to insert the stuffing. Do not add stuffing to the very top of the leg (Rnd 8).
Rnd 9: [dec, sc] x3 (6)
Flatten the top of the leg and crochet the opening shut with 3 sc. Fasten off and leave a long tail (20 cm / 8 inches) for sewing.    

Tail
With colour A
Rnd 1: ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2 – Rnd 10: sc in each st (6)
Do not stuff the tail. Flatten the top of the tail and crochet the opening shut with 3 sc. Fasten off and leave a long tail (20 cm / 8 inches) for sewing.    

Final Assembly
Front legs
Position the front legs to the front of the body (back of the body is where you made the colour change) between rounds 12 and 14. Sew on the legs. Attach the legs to the body in the middle of the leg with a few stitches to keep the legs from sticking out. Fasten and hide the yarn ends inside (See pictures 7, 8 and 9).

Back legs 
Position the back legs to the sides of the body between rounds 4 and 7. Sew on the legs. Attach the legs to the body in the middle of the leg with a few stitches for them not to stick out. Fasten and hide the yarn ends inside (See the pictures 7 and 10).

Tail
Position the tail in the centre to the back of the body. Sew on the tail. Fasten and hide the yarn end inside (See picture 11).

Head
Attach the head to the body with some sewing pins to find the right placement. If you are happy with the position, sew the head on. Fasten and hide the yarn end inside (See picture 12).


Bow
With colour B
Crochet around the foundation chain (See picture 13)
Ch11 (the slip knot you start with is counted as the 1st ch)
Rnd1: dc in 4th st from the hook, hdc, sc, slst, sc, hdc, dc, ch3 and slst in the 1st ch, (pull the first chain tight by pulling the yarn end and continue to crochet the other side of the chain), ch3, dc, hdc, sc, slst, sc, hdc, dc, ch3 and join with a slst.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

Sew the bow on to the head (or below the chin to make a boy cat) with colour C yarn. Attach the bow to the head with few stitches and then make few stitches over the centre of the bow. Fasten and hide the yarn end inside (See pictures 14 and 15).

Congratulations, your kitty is finished!

If you liked this pattern, check out also my pattern stores on Etsy, Ravelry and Craftsy for my other cute patterns. Follow me also on Facebook or Instagram. If you have any questions or comments to the pattern (or you find a mistake in the pattern) do not hesitate to send me an e-mail or write in the comments below.

My kittens are already enjoying the nice summer weather outside. I wish you also a great summer!



Eestikeelne muster

Oluline! Seda juhendit ei ole lubatud müüa. Võid jagada seda oma veebilehel või blogis, samuti võid selle juhendi järgi valminud mänguasju müüa. Tänutäheks juhendi eest palun viita minu kui autori veebilehele (http://smartapplecreations.blogspot.com)

Märkused
- Heegelda ringselt (ehk spiraalselt) ridu ühendamata, kui ei ole öeldud teisiti
- Heegelda läbi mõlema aasa.
- Kasuta silmusemärkijat või lõngajuppi ringi lõpu märkimiseks, et saaksid kergemini järge pidada. Liiguta silmusemärkijat peale iga rea lõpetamist.
- Heegelda mänguasi üsna tugevate silmustega. Et vältida auke, millest täidis välja hakkab paistma, kasuta peenemat heegelnõela

Oskused 
Võluring, ringselt heegeldamine, ahelsilmus, aassilmus, kinnissilmus, poolsammas, ühekordne sammas, varjatud kahandamine, kasvatamine.

Materjalid ja tarvikud
- See mänguasi on heegeldatud DROPS Muskat lõngast (50 g = ca 100 m). Vajad umbes 70 m värvi A, 9 m värvi B, 9 m värvi C;
- roosa tikkimisniiti (mulinee, iiris vms);
- rohelised pikliku pupilliga turvasilmi (18 mm);
- polüester kerakiud (või muu täitematerjal vastavalt soovile);
- heegelnõel 2.5 mm
- silmusemärkija, käärid, mõned nööpnõelad ja sukanõel

Lühendid
R – rida
ah – ahelsilmus
aass – aassilmus
ks – kinnissilmus
ps – poolsammas
s – ühekordne sammas
(N) – silmuste arv ringis peale rea lõpetamist
Nks - heegelda üks kinnissilmus igasse järgmisesse N arv silmusesse
[…] xN – korda kandilistes sulgudes kirjeldatud juhist N arv kordi selles reas
kasv – kasvatamine (heegelda 2 kinnissilmust näidatud silmusesse)
kah – varjatud kahandamine  (heegelda kaks järgmist silmust kokku nii, et pistad heegelnõela läbi kahe järgmise silmuse eesmiste aasade, võta lõng heegelnõelale ning tõmba läbi kahe heegelnõelal oleva silmuse)

Kõrvad (tee 2)
Värv A
R1: Võluring ja 3 ks sellesse, tõmba ring kokku (3)
R2: [kasv] x3 (6)
R3: [kasv, ks] x3 (9)
R4: [2ks, kasv] x3 (12)
R5: [ks, kasv, 2ks] x3 (15)
R6: [kasv, 4ks] x3 (18)
Vajuta kõrva ülaosa lapikuks ja heegelda avaus 8 aass-ga kinni läbi eesmiste aasade (vt. pildid 1 ja 2). Katkesta lõng ja jäta umbes 20 cm lõngasaba õmblemiseks.

Pea 
Värv A. Alusta heegeldamist pealaelt.
R1: Võluring ja 6 ks sellesse, tõmba ring kokku (6)
R2: [kasv] x6 (12)
R3: [kasv, ks] x6 (18)
R4: [2ks, kasv] x6 (24)
R5: [ks, kasv, 2ks] x6 (30)
R6: [kasv, 4ks] x6 (36)
R7: [2ks, kasv, 3ks] x6 (42)
R8: [4ks, kasv, 2ks] x6 (48)
R9 – R17: ks igasse silmusesse (48)
R18: [kah, 6ks] x6 (42)
R19: [2ks, kah, 3ks] x6 (36)
Aseta paika turvasilmad 11. ja 12. rea vahele, jättes silmade vahele 8 silmust (7 auku). Kinnita turvasilma tagused paika.
R20: [4ks, kah] x6 (30)
R21: [ks, kah, 2ks] x6 (24)
R22: [kah, 2ks] x6 (18)
Täida pea täitematerjaliga. 

Paiguta kõrvad külgedele 4. ja 11. rea vahele ning kinnita esialgu nööpnõeltega, et leida õige asukoht (vt. pilt 3). Seejärel õmble kõrvad pea külge.
Tiki nina roosa niidiga silmade vahele (vt. pilt 4) väikeste horisontaalsete pistetega. Püüa pisted teha enam vähem ühepikkused ja üksteisele hästi lähedale. Tõmba lõng pingule peale iga piste tegemist. 
Alusta suu tikkimist kohe nina alt keskelt. Tee vertikaalne piste üle kolme rea ja tõmba niit pingule. Too nõel välja sealt, kus tahad, et suu algaks ja vii pea sisse seal, kus suu lõpeb (vt. pilt 5). Pinguta niiti, et tekiks naeratav suu. Kinnita see väikeste pistetega mööda suud (vt. pilt 6).   

Kui vaja, siis lisa veel täitematerjali.
R23: [ks, kah] x6 (12)
R24: [kah] x6 (6)
Katkesta lõng ja peida lõngasaba pea sisse.

Keha
Värv A
Alusta heegeldamist keha alumisest osast.
R1: Võluring ja 6 ks sellesse, tõmba ring kokku (6)
R2: [kasv] x6 (12)
R3: [kasv, ks] x6 (18)
R4: [2ks, kasv] x6 (24)
R5: [ks, kasv, 2ks] x6 (30)
R6: [kasv, 4ks] x6 (36)
Vaheta lõnga värviks B viimase kinnissilmusega.   
R7 – R8: ks igasse silmusesse (36)
Vaheta lõnga värviks C viimase kinnissilmusega.
R9: [kah, 4ks] x6 (30)
R10: ks igasse silmusesse (30)
Vaheta lõnga värviks B viimase kinnissilmusega.
R11: ks igasse silmusesse (30)
R12: [2ks, kah, ks] x6 (24)
Vaheta lõnga värviks A viimase kinnissilmusega. Peida kõik lahtised lõngajupid keha sisse. 
R13: ks igasse silmusesse (24)
R14: [kah, 6ks] x3 (21)
Täida keha täitematerjaliga. 
Katkesta lõng ja jäta umbes 30 cm lõngasaba õmblemiseks.

Esijalad (tee 2)
Värv A
R1: Võluring ja 6 ks sellesse, tõmba ring kokku (6)
R2: [kasv, 2ks] x2 (8)
R3 – R8: ks igasse silmusesse (8)
Täida jalg täitematerjaliga. Kasuta täidise lisamiseks kääre või heegelnõela otsa. Ära lisa täitematerjali päris ülaossa.
R9: [kah, 2ks] x2 (6)
Vajuta jala ülaosa lapikuks ja heegelda avaus kinni 3 kinnissilmusega. Katkesta lõng ja jäta umbes 20 cm lõngasaba õmblemiseks.    

Tagajalad (tee 2)
Värv A
R1: Võluring ja 6 ks sellesse, tõmba ring kokku (6)
R2: [kasv, ks] x3 (9)
R3 – R8: ks igasse silmusesse (9)
Täida jalg täitematerjaliga. 
R9: [kah, ks] x3 (6)
Vajuta jala ülaosa lapikuks ja heegelda avaus kinni 3 kinnissilmusega. Katkesta lõng ja jäta umbes 20 cm lõngasaba õmblemiseks.    

Saba
Värv A
R1: Võluring ja 6 ks sellesse, tõmba ring kokku (6)
R2 – R10: ks igasse silmusesse (6)
Ära sabasse täitematerjali lisa. Vajuta saba ülaosa lapikuks ja heegelda avaus kokku 3 kinnissilmusega. Katkesta lõng ja jäta umbes 20 cm lõngasaba õmblemiseks.    

Kokku õmblemine
Esijalad
Paiguta esijalad keha esiosasse (säti värvivahetuse kohad keha tagaossa) 12. ja 14. rea vahele. Õmble jalad keha külge. Kinnita ka jala keskosa mõne pistega keha külge, et jalad hoiaksid kenasti keha ligi. Kinnita ja peida lõng töö sisse. (Vt. pildid 7, 8 ja 9).

Tagajalad 
Paiguta tagajalad keha külgedele ridade 4. ja 7. vahele. Õmble jalad keha külge.  Kinnita jala keskosa mõne pistega keha külge. Kinnita ja peida lõng töö sisse. (Vt pildid 7 ja 10).

Saba
Paiguta saba keha tagaossa keskele ja õmble keha külge. Kinnita ja peida lõng töö sisse (vt pilt 11).

Pea
Kinnita pea keha külge esialgu mõne nööpnõelaga, et leida õige asukoht. Kui oled pea paigutusega rahul, siis õmble ka pea keha külge (vt. pilt 12). Kinnita ja peida lõng pea sisse.

Lips
Värv B
Tee kett 11 ah-ga ja heegelda rida ümber selle.
R1: ühekordne sammas 4ndasse silmusesse (heegelnõela poolt vaadatuna), ps, ks, aass, ks, ps, s, 3 ah ja aass esimesse keti silmusesse. Tõmba esimene ahelsilmus kõvasti pingule lõngajupist, mis jäi alustamisest ning jätka keti teise külje heegeldamist. 3 ah, s, ps, ks, aass, ks, ps, s, 3 ah ja kinnita aass-ga.
Katkesta lõng ja peida lõngajupid sisse. 

Õmble lips pea külge või kassile lõua alla C värvi lõngaga. Kinnita kõigepealt lips külge mõne pistega ning seejärel tee mõned pisted üle lipsu keskosa. Kinnita ja peida lõng pea sisse (vt. pildid 14 ja 15).

Palju õnne, kassike ongi valmis! 

Kui sul on mustri kohta küsimusi või kommentaare (kui ka näiteks leiad mingi vea), siis võta minuga julgesti ühendust: saada mulle e-post või kirjuta alla kommentaar. Lisaks leiab mind ka Facebookis ja Instagramis ning minu tasulisi inglisekeelseid juhendeid võib osta Etsy, Ravelry või Craftsy kaudu. Juhendeid on võimalik osta ka ülekandega makstes, kui PayPali või krediitkaardiga maksmise võimalust ei ole. Selleks palun saada mulle eraldi soov e-postiga.   

Ilusat suve jätku!  
              
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Bébé Groot à partir du film Les gardiens de la galaxie - Patron crochet amigurumi gratuit, en français

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Baby Groot crochet pattern has become undeniably my most popular crochet pattern. According to the statistics it has been viewed over 17 000 times in different languages. That is a lot for me and makes me really happy. I did not expect the pattern to become so popular. Thanks to Comete59 (website: Chez Comete59) the pattern is now also available in French. Merci Comete59!

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Free crochet pattern - Tiny Fuzzy Halloween Kitten

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It has been a year since I made my first attempt to write a crochet pattern for a tiny amigurumi kitten. Halloween was just coming and I thought that a cute and scary fuzzy black kitten would be a great idea for a free pattern. Now I have gained much more experiences and I have established my own pattern writing style. Therefore the pattern needed a little update. I changed some bits a pieces here and there and also added some photos of the process. The pattern itself is an easy one but using black fuzzy yarn makes it a bit tricky. It is really hard to keep track of the stitches but fortunately you cannot see the mistakes later. Although, if something goes terribly wrong and you need to unravel a couple of rows, it is almost impossible (at least with the yarn I used).

***

Nüüd on sellest juba aasta möödas, kui kirjutasin valmis oma esimese heegeldamise juhendi pisikese kassipoja tegemiseks. Halloween oli siis just ukse eest ja mulle tundus, et on hea mõte teha tasuta juhend just ühe veidi hirmuäratava, kuid samas väga armsa karvase kassipoja heegeldamiseks. Nüüdseks olen palju kogenum ning mul on välja kujunenud ka oma juhendi kirjutamise stiil. Seepärast vajas juhend väikest värskenduskuuri. Muutsin juhendis natuke siit ja natuke sealt ning lisasin ka pilte tööprotsessist. Juhend iseenesest on lihtne, kuid veidi keeruliseks teeb selle musta karvase lõnga kasutamine. Väga keeruline on aru saada, kus mingi silmus on, kuid õnneks pole vigu hiljem näha. Kuigi, kui midagi peaks ikka väga valesti minema ja mõni rida on vaja üles harutada, siis on see üsna võimatu (vähemalt selle lõnga puhul, mida mina kasutasin).  


I had at home a skein of brown and grey fuzzy yarn and I made two more kittens. The brown yarn was of the same type as the black fyzzy yarn but the grey was much fuzzier (I think it is also called eyelash yarn). Although the colour is lighter the grey yarn was even more difficult to work with. It felt like I was blind because I could not see any of the stitches. Actually I crocheted quite randomly and somehow I succeded to get a kitten out of it. This yarn was finer and I had to make some adjustments to the pattern to get the kitten the same size. I also tried out some different faces for the kittens. The grey cat has a pointier nose and I did not make the "vampire teeth". All the kittens are very soft and silky. My baby girl giggles every time I tickle her nose with the kitten's tail. My kids also like to hug and stroke the cats gently.

***

Mul oli kodus veel üks tokk pruuni ja halli karvast lõnga ka, nii et tegin kaks kassipoega veel. Pruun lõng on sama mark, mis must, kuid hall lõng oli palju karvasem. Kuigi värv on heledam, oli halli lõngaga veel raskem heegeldada. Vahepeal tundus, et ma olen pime, sest ma ei suutnud ühtegi silmust eristada. Heegeldasin üsna suvaliselt, kuid kuidagi õnnestus kassipoeg ikkagi välja võluda. Hall karvane lõng oli peenem ja pidin mustrit veidi kohandama, et sama suur kassipoeg saada. Samuti proovisin kassipoegadele teha ka veidi erinevaid nägusid. Hall kiisu sai omale teravama nina ja vampiirihambaid ma ei teinud. Kõik kassid on väga pehmed ja siidised. Mu pisem tütar alati itsitab, kui ma tema nina kiisu sabaga kõditan. Mõlemale lapsele meeldib neid kallistada ja hellalt silitada. 

Inglisekeelse juhendi kassipoja heegeldamiseks leiad allpool.      


Here comes the tiny fuzzy Halloween kitten pattern for the adventurous crocheters who are up for the challenge.

Pattern

Important! It is prohibited to sell the pattern, you are welcome to share the pattern on your website or blog if you credit Smartapple Creations as the designer and add a link to my website http://smartapplecreations.blogspot.com. If you would like to translate the pattern, you need to ask for my permission first. You may sell the finished items made according to the pattern.

Notes:
- Crochet in continuous spiral through both loops.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the ending of the round. Move the stitch marker after finishing each round.
- Pattern is written using standard US crocheting terms.

Skills you will need:
slip stitch, single crochet stitch, increasing, decreasing, crocheting in rounds.

Materials and tools you will need:
- Black Aran fuzzy yarn – I used a soft decorative yarn „Fabia“ by Shcoeller&Stahl (25g / 0.88 oz = 51 m / 56 yds)
- Black fingering weight cotton yarn – I used „Almina“ (50g / 1.76oz = 169 m / 185 yds)
- Green slit pupil safety eyes size 10 mm
- Polyester fiberfill (or stuffing of your choice)
- Crochet hooks 3 mm (US 3) for fuzzy yarn and 1.5 mm (US steel crochet hook size 8) for cotton yarn
- a thread of pink and white embroidery floss
- Scissors, a yarn needle, some sewing pins

Abbreviations:
Rnd - round
(N) - number of stitches in row after finishing
st, sts - stitch(es)
slst - slip stitch
sc - single crochet stitch
inc - increase (make 2 single crochet stitches in indicated stitch)
dec - invisible decrease (crochet next 2 stitches together into 1 stitch by picking up the front loops of two stitches and crocheting one single crochet stitch into both loops)
Nsc - crochet one sc in the following N stitches
[...] xN - repeat instructions described in the brackets N times in that row

Muzzle
With fingering weight yarn
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12)
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x3 (18)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose with pink embroidery floss, mouth and teeth with white embroidery floss.

Ears (make 2)
With fingering weight yarn
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc, sc] x3 (9)
Rnd 3: [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
Rnd 4: [sc, inc, 2sc] x3 (15)
Rnd 5: [inc, 4sc] x3 (18)

Flatten the top of the ear and crochet the opening shut with 8 slst through front loops. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.


Head and Body
With fuzzy yarn
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12)
Rnd 3: [inc, sc] x6 (18)
Rnd 4: [inc, 2sc] x6 (24)
Rnd 5 - Rnd 10: sc in each st (24)
Rnd 11: [dec, 2sc] x6 (18)

Insert the safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7 leaving 4 or 5 sts between them and fasten with the washers. Stuff the head. 

Rnd 12: [dec, sc] x6 (12)
Rnd 13: [dec, 2sc] x3 (9)

Form a little semi-cirlce of the ear, position the ears to the sides between rounds 3 and 7 and sew them on.


Continue to crochet the body.

Rnd 14: [inc, 2sc] x3 (12)
Rnd 15: [sc, inc, 2sc] x3 (15)
Rnd 16 - Rnd 17: sc in each st (15)
Rnd 18: [4sc, inc] x3 (18)
Rnd 19 - Rnd 21: sc in each st (18)

Stuff the body.

Rnd 22: [dec, sc] x6 (12)
Rnd 23: [dec] x6 (6)

Fasten off. Pick up the remaining stitches and pull the center tightly closed. Hide the yarn tail inside the body.

Position the muzzle to the face between the eyes and sew it on.

Legs (make 4)
With fingering weight yarn
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 6 sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc, sc] x3 (9)
Rnd 3 - Rnd 10: sc in each st (9)

Stuff the leg. Flatten the top of the leg and crochet the opening shut with 4sc through both loops. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Position two legs on to the front of the body and two legs to the sides of the body, sew them on. Your cat will sit neatly and the legs will not stick out if you attach the legs to the body with a few stitches also in the middle of the legs. Hide the yarn tails inside the body.



Tail
With fuzzy yarn
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 5 sc and tighten the loop (5)
Rnd 2 - Rnd 10: sc in each st (5)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail on to the back of the body.




Congratulations, your kitten is ready!


If you liked this pattern check out also my pattern stores on Ravelry, Craftsy or Etsy for my other cute patterns. Follow me also on Facebook or Instagram. If you have any questions or comments to the pattern, feel free to send me an e-mail or write in the comments below.

Send me the pictures of your kitten by email or share them on my Facebook page for others to enjoy as well!

Thank you for visiting!
  

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Baby Groot - Amigurumi [patrón GRATIS]

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Huge thank you to Marta Ruso (Hama Style & Amigurumis) for translating my Baby Groot pattern into Spanish. Muchas gracias Marta! Here comes the pattern.

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Gratis Häkelanleitung in Deutsch - Baby Groot aus Guardians of the Galaxy

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Big thank you to Mausgefleder (who found me on Ravelry) for translating the crochet pattern for Baby Groot into German. Unfortunately my German is not good enough and I can provide you help in English.
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Free Crochet Pattern - Baby Groot inspired by Guardians of the Galaxy

40 Comments
My crocheted baby Groot inspired by the Marvel movie "Guardians of the Galaxy" turned out to be quite popular and many people have asked for the pattern. I decided to postpone my other crocheting plans for few days and made a free pattern for you. I am sure many people wait Marvel to come up with an original dancing baby Groot toy but if you can't wait that long, make your own. Baby Groot is so adorable, who would not want one or maybe even two! If you have not yet seen the movie then do it soon. It is awsome! After seeing it you definately want a baby Groot of your own.

Amigurumi baby Groot is as cute as the original and makes you smile every time you look at him. You can change his dance poses because there is wire hidden inside his body and arms. He is about 20 cm (8 inches) tall if using similar yarn. The difficulty of the pattern is advanced beginner to intermediate.

Here comes the pattern, happy crocheting!

UPDATE! The Baby Groot pattern is now also available in German.

***

Minu amigurumi beebi Groot, mis on inspireeritud filmist Galaktika valvurid, osutus üllatavalt populaarseks ning paljud inimesed on küsinud minult selle heegeldamise juhendit. Otsustasin hetkel siis oma muud heegeldamise plaanid edasi lükata ning tegin juhendi valmis. Ma ei ole kindel, kui populaarne see film Eestis juba on. Kuna Ameerikas on see väga populaarne, siis hetkel on juhend ainult inglise keeles. Kui armastad fantaasiafilme, siis soovitan kindlasti Galaktika valvurite filmi ära vaadata. Pärast tahad kindlasti endale ka ühte pisikest beebi Grooti poti sees. 

Pisike Groot on väga armastusväärne ja teda vaadates tuleb kohe naeratus näole. Tema tantsupoose saab muuta, sest keha ja käte sisse on peidetud traat. Ta on 20 cm pikk, kui kasutada samasugust lõnga. Juhend on sobilik juba kogenumale algajale või keskmise tasemega amigurumi meisterdajale. 

Pattern

Important! It is prohibited to sell the pattern, you are welcome to share the pattern on your website or blog if you credit Smartapple Creations as the designer and add a link to my website http://smartapplecreations.blogspot.com. If you would like to translate the pattern, you need to ask for my permission first. Note that this is a popular figure and holds a copyright by its original creator. I share the pattern for free and for personal use only. Other actions are on your responsibility.

Notes:
- Crochet with tight stitches. To avoid holes, use a smaller hook.
- Pattern is written using standard US crocheting terms.
-You can make a larger or smaller baby Groot using bulkier or finer yarn, adjust the size of the crochet hook and safety eyes accordingly. Use a crochet hook at least a size or size and half smaller that suggested on yarn label. 

Skills you will need:
chain stitch, slip stitch, single crochet stitch, half double crochet stitch, increasing, regular decreasing, invisible decreasing, crocheting in rounds, crocheting through back loops or front loops only.

Materials and tools you will need:
- brown fingering weight yarn (about 100 m / 109 yds). (I used "Capri" by Steinbach Wolle. 50 g (1.75 oz)
= 125 m (136 yds));
- few meters / yards of green fingering weigth yarn for the leaves;
- black embroidery floss;
- 10 mm safety eyes;
- polyester fiberfill or other stuffing material;
- 2.25 mm crochet hook (US steel crochet hook size 2);
- copper wire;
- pincers for cutting and bending the wire;
- a few pins, yarn needle, scissors;
- flower pot (diameter 6 cm / 2.4 inches on the top)

Abbreviations:
R - row
(N) - number of stitches in row after finishing
ch - chain stitch
st, sts - stitch(es)
slst - slip stitch
sc - single crochet stitch
hdc - half double crochet stitch
FLO - crochet through front loops only
BLO - crochet through back loops only
inc - increase (make 2 single crochet stitches in indicated stitch)
dec - invisible decrease (crochet next 2 stitches together into 1 stitch by picking up the front loops of two stitches and crocheting one single crochet stitch into both loops)
sc2tog - regular decrease (crochet next 2 stitches together into 1 stitch by pulling up a loop through both stitches and crocheting the loops together)
Nsc / N hdc / Nslst - crochet one sc / hdc / slst in the following N stitches
[...] xN - repeat instructions described in the brackets N times in that row

Body
- Crochet the whole piece through back loops only to achieve the ribbed look.
- Crochet back and forth (turn the piece after finishing each row)
Ch 32
R1: hdc in the third ch from the hook, hdc, 6sc, 14slst, 4sc, 4hdc (30)
R2: ch1, 6sc, 20slst, 4sc (30)
R3: ch1, 30sc (30)
R4: ch2, 4hdc, 2sc, 6slst, 6sc, 6slst, 4sc, 2hdc (30)
R5: ch1, 12sc, 6slst, 12sc (30)
R6: ch2, 4hdc, 26sc (30)
R7: ch1, 8sc, 14slst, 4sc, 4hdc (30)
R8: ch1, 30sc (30)
R9: ch1, 6sc, 18slst, 3sc, 3hdc (30)
R10: ch2, 4hdc, 6sc, 14slst, 3sc, 3hdc (30)
R11: ch2, 3hdc, 23sc, 4hdc (30)
R12: ch1, 6sc, 6slst, 8sc, 4slst, 6sc (30)
R13: ch1, 30sc (30)
Fold the piece into half so that R1 is in the front and opening is on the top. To make the piece into a tube crochet R1 and R13 together with 30slst (R13 through back loops only). Do not fasten off the yarn. Continue to crochet the head. 

Head and Hair
- Crochet in a continous spiral, do not join rounds or turn.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end of the row.
- Crochet through both loops unless stated otherwise.
R1: Ch1, pick up 30 sc in this row. For that make [inc] x2 to the first spacing between the ribs, then inc in each rib and each spacing, again [inc] x2 to the sixth spacing and again inc to each rib and spacing until you have 30 sts.
R2: sc in each st (30)
R3: [inc, 4sc] x6 (36)
R4: 8sc, [inc] x2, 12sc, [inc] x2, 12sc (40)
R5 - R9: sc in each st (40)
R10: 8sc, [dec] x3, 10sc, [dec] x3, 10sc (34)
R11: 9sc, [dec, 4sc] x2, dec, 9sc, dec (30)
Insert the safety eyes between rows 11 and 12 by leaving 7 sts (6 holes) between them. Fasten with the washers tightly.
R12 - R15: sc in each st (30)
R16: [dec, 3sc] x6 (24)

Continue to make the hair.
R17 FLO: 
[Spike 1: ch5, crochet 4slst down along the chain, 2slst
Spike 2: ch8, 7slst along the chain, 2slst
Spike 3: ch6, 5slst along the chain, 2slst] x4 (12 spikes in total)
Spike 13: ch8, 7slst along the chain (you will fasten the last spike by making the first sc to back loop of the first sc of R17)
R17 BLO: [sc, sc2tog, sc] x6 (18)
Stuff the head
R18 FLO: [Spike 1: ch8, 7slst along the chain, slst
Spike2: ch6, 5slst along the chain, 2slst] x6 (12 spikes in total)
R18 BLO: [sc, sc2tog] x6 (12)
R19 FLO: [ch6, 5slst along the chain, 2slst] x6 (6 spikes in total)
R19 BLO: [sc2tog] x6 (6)
Make one last spike to the top of the head: ch6, 5slst along the chain and fasten with a slst into the next sc.
Fasten off. Sew the hole closed on the top of the head, aga hide the yarn end inside the head. 

Embroider the smiling mouth with black embroidery floss (the mouth is 13 sts wide and between rows 6-9). Hide the yarn ends inside the head.  

Stuff the body. 


Arm (make 2)
- Crochet the whole piece through back loops only to achieve the ribbed look.
- Crochet back and forth (turn the piece after finishing each row)
Ch25
R1: slst to the next ch from the hook, 23 slst (24)
R2: ch2, 3hdc, 17sc, ch7 (27)
R3: (crochet along the chain) slst to the next ch from the hook, 5slst, 17sc, 3hdc (26)
R4: ch2, 3hdc, 5sc, 7slst, 5sc, ch5 (25)
R5: (crochet along the chain) slst to the next ch from the hook, 6slst, 3sc, 6slst, 5sc, 3hdc (24)
Fold the piece into half so that R1 is in the front and opening is on the top. To make the piece into a tube crochet R1 and R5 together with 19slst up to the fingers (R5 through back loops only). Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the arm. Sew the hole closed in the jointing of arm and hand and bring the yarn through the arm and through the hole on the other side (you will use it to sew on the arm).  

Assembly
To make your Groot poseable put some wire inside the arms and body. I had some 0,5 mm copper wire at home. For the arms I cut a piece of wire about 38 cm / 15 inches (twice the length of two arms plus width of the body). I folded it into half and winded it together to a spiral leaving a small loop to the top. As my wire was so thin I made it stronger that way. Insert the end of the wire into one arm, bring the wire through the body where you want the arms to position. Make a loop to the other end of the wire and insert it into the second arm. Attach the arms with some sewing pins to find the right position and sew them on.

For the body I cut a piece 2 times the length of the Groot plus a couple of extra cm/inches and winded it into a spiral the same way. Insert it into the stuffed body so that the upper loop reaches the head and bend the lower part also into a loop. An inch / a couple of centimeters of the lower part should stick out. It will be hidden inside the soil ball.


Leaf (make 4)
Ch5 (count the slip knot as the first ch), slst in the next ch from the hook, 2sc, 3slst into the first ch (pull the first ch tight by pulling the yarn end and continue to crochet the other side of the chain), 2sc, slst. Join the round with a slst into the first slst, ch3.
Fasten off and leave a yarn end long enough for sewing, hide the starting yarn end inside the leaf. Sew the leaves on to both arms and two leaves on to the head.

Soil ball
- The soil ball is made for a flower pot with a diameter of 6 cm (2.4 inches) on the top. If you have a smaller / larger pot, adjust the increasing and decreasing accordingly.
- Crochet in a continous spiral, do not join rounds or turn.
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end of the row.
- Crochet through both loops.
R1: Take the yarn, make a slip knot and leave it on the hook. Insert the hook through the piece, yarn over, pull up a loop to make the first sc. Increase in each rib and spacing (twice in a wider spacing) to get in total 36 sc in this row. (36)
R2: [inc, 5sc] x6 (42)
R3: [2sc, inc, 4sc] x6 (48)
R4 - R9: sc in each st (48)
R10: [dec, 6sc] x6 (42)
R11: [2sc, dec, 3sc] x6 (36)
R12: [4sc, dec] x6 (30)
R13: [sc, dec, 2sc] x6 (24)
R14: [2sc, dec] x6 (18)
Stuff the soil ball
R15: [dec, sc] x6 (12)
R16: [dec] x6 (6)
Fasten off, sew the hole closed and hide the yarn end inside.

You can glue the soil ball to the pot or add some pretty stones on the top to make sure your baby Groot will not fall out.


 Congratulations, you are now a proud owner of a baby Groot! 


If you liked this pattern check out also my pattern stores on Ravelry and Craftsy for my other cute patterns. Follow me also on Facebook or Instagram. If you have any questions or comments to the pattern do not hesitate to send me an e-mail or write in the comments below.

I would love to see how your baby Groot turned out. Please send the pictures to me by email or share them on my Facebook page for others to enjoy as well!

Thank you for visiting!

  
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Free pattern - Fred the Frog

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It is this time of the year when frogs wake up from hibernation and are trying to find their way into the water to lay eggs. Often it involves crossing busy roads as they have been built across their migration paths. Each spring in Estonia a crew of volunteers help to save thousands of frogs and toads from becoming a roadkill. Also they are educating drivers and putting up signs everywhere to draw attention to the frogs crossing the roads. I think it is very nice what these people do for the frogs. In honour of that I want to present you a free amigurumi pattern for Fred the Frog.

***

On jälle see aeg käes, kui konnad ärkavad talveunest ja püüavad leida teed veekogude juurde, et kudeda. Sageli peavad nad selleks ületama tiheda liiklusega maanteed, mis on ehitatud üle nende rändeteede. Igal kevadel aitavad paljud vabatahtlikud tuhandeid konni ohutult üle teede, et päästa neid autorataste alt. Samuti on igal pool sildid üleval, et tõmmata autojuhtide tähelepanu teed ületavatele konnadele ja kutsuda neid kiirust vähendama. Minu arvates on see väga kena, et inimesed konni aitavad. Selle puhul pakun teile tasuta juhendi, kuidas heegeldada konnake nimega Fred.


Amigurumi frog Fred is a member of my little pocket friends club. For the pattern I changed him a little and made him smaller, he is about 5.5 cm (2.2 inches) tall. Fred is a grumpy little frog but very friendly. You can make him to be a key chain or a bag charm or just a toy - the frog fits perfectly into little hands. You will need pretty basic crochet skills to make him so I ecourage beginners to give it a try as well. Nevertheless, you need to be quite patient as using a fine yarn and small hook make the circumference of the pieces very small and tricky to handle.

***

Heegeldatud konn Fred on minu väikeste taskusõprade klubi liige. Õpetuse jaoks muutsin teda veidi ja tegin väiksemaks - konn on umbes 5.5 cm pikk. Fred on natuke pahura olemisega, kuid siiski väga sõbralik. Temast võib saada võtmehoidja või kotikaunistus. Samas võib ta jääda ka lihtsalt mänguasjaks, sest ta mahub ilusti lapse väiksesse peopessa. Konna heegeldamiseks on vaja üsna elementaarseid heegeldamise oskusi, nii et julgustan ka algajaid amigurumisõpru tema tegemist proovima. Siiski hoiatan, et kui kasutada peenikest lõnga ja väikest heegelnõela, on detailide ümbermõõt väga väike, mis teeb nende käsitsemise veidi keeruliseks ning nõuab palju kannatlikkust. Eestikeelse õpetuse leiad päris all.    


Pattern

Important! It is prohibited to sell the pattern, you are welcome to share the pattern on your website or blog and sell the finished items made according to it. As a thank you please credit Maarja Härsing-Värk (http://smartapplecreations.com) as the designer. 

Notes:

- Crochet in rounds, do not join or turn
- Crochet under both loops
- Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the beginnig of the round
- Crochet with tight stitches, to avoid holes use a smaller hook  

Skills you will need:
Magic ring, single crochet stitch, crocheting in rounds, increasing and decreasing.

Tools & Materials:
- Green fingering weight cotton yarn ( I used Capri by Steinbach Wolle, 50 g (1,75 oz) = 125 m (136 yds))
- about one meter / yrd of black fingering weight yarn
- Crochet hook 2 mm (US steel hook size 4)
- slit pupil safety eyes 10 mm
- polyester fiberfill or other stuffing material
- a few pins, yarn needle, scissors

Abbreviations:

Rnd - round
(N) - number of stitches in round after finishing this round
st, sts - stitch(es)
sc - single crochet stitch
inc - increase (make 2 sc in indicated st)
inc3 - double increase (3 sc in indicated st)
dec - decrease (crochet next 2 sts together into 1 st)
Nsc - crochet one sc in following N sts
[...] xN - repeat instructions described in the brackets N times in that round


Eyes (make 2)
Rnd 1:
Magic ring with 6sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x6 (12)
Rnd 3 - Rnd 5: sc in each st (12)
Fasten off and make a neat finish for the piece. Insert the safety eye between rounds 3 and 4 and push the washers to place. See pictures below.


Body

Rnd 1:
Magic ring with 6sc and tighten the loop (6)
Rnd 2:
[inc] x6 (12)
Rnd 3:
[inc, sc] x6 (18)
Rnd 4:
[2sc, inc] x6 (24)
Rnd 5:
[sc, inc, 2sc] x6 (30)
Rnd 6 - Rnd 13:
sc in each st (30)
Add a bit of stuffing to the eye and position the eyes on the top of the head. Attach with some sewing pins first to find the right placement and then sew the eyes to the head, fasten and hide the yarn ends inside.
With black yarn embroider the nose between rounds 3 and 4, and mouth between round 4 and 8 leaving 10 sts between the corners of the mouth.
See pictures below.
Rnd 14: [dec, sc] x10 (20)
Rnd 15: [2sc, dec] x5 (15)
Rnd 16: [dec, sc] x5 (10)
Stuff the body (use something pointy to insert the stuffing, for example scissors) 
Rnd 17: [dec] x5 (5)
Fasten off, thread the yarn into yarn needle and close the hole. Hide the yarn end inside the body.

Legs (make 2)
Rnd 1: Magic ring with 5sc and tighten the loop (5)
Rnd 2 - Rnd 11: sc in each st (5)
Rnd 12: [inc3] x5 (15)
Rnd 13: sc in each st (15)
Start making the toes
First toe

Rnd 14: 2sc, skip 10 st and sc into 13th st, 2sc (5) Continue to crochet the small round
Rnd 15:
sc in each st (5)
Rnd 16: [dec] x2, skip last sc (3) 
Fasten off
Second toe

Rnd 14: make a slip knot about 15 cm (6 inches) from the end, leave it on the hook and insert under both loops of 3rd st. Pull up a loop and make the first sc (see pictures), 2sc, skip 5 sts and sc into 11th st, sc (5) Continue to crochet the small round 
Rnd 15: sc in each st (5)
Rnd 16: 
[dec] x2, skip last sc (3)
Fasten off

Third toe

Rnd 14: make a slip knot about 15 cm (6 inches) from the end, leave it on the hook and insert under both loops of 6th st. Pull up a loop and make the first sc, 4sc (5) Continue to crochet the small round
Rnd 15: sc in each st (5)
Rnd 16:  [dec] x2, skip last sc (3)
Fasten off and leave a long tail (30cm / 12 inches) for sewing.


Assembly (see pictures)
You will have five yarn tails hanging out from the leg. Thread the yarn tail between toes into a needle, sew the hole closed and hide the yarn end inside the leg. Thread the yarn tail on the tip of the first and second toe into a needle, insert the needle through the tip towards inside and hide the ends inside the leg. Cut the excess yarn ends. 

Thread the yarn end you left after finishing the third toe into a needle, insert the needle through the tip towards inside and bring the needle up through the middle of the foot. Fold the leg into half and sew through both sides with a couple of stitches. The leg will look like it is squatting. 

Attach the legs to the sides of the body with some sewing pins first to find the right placement. If your frog is sitting nicely, sew the legs to the body. Sew along the lower part of the leg and along the toe edge that is close to the body. Fasten and hide the yarn ends inside the body.

Congratulations! Fred the Frog is ready.

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Eyes: Fasten off and thread the yarn into a needle; skip one stitch and insert the needle from back to front under both loops of the next st; insert the needle from the top of the last st between loops and bring the yarn into the back side. Insert the safety eye and put the washer to place. *** Silmad: Katkesta lõng ja aja lõng nõela taha; jäta üks silmus vahele ja vii nõel tagant ette järgmise silmuse mõlema aasa alt; seejärel vii nõel läbi viimase silmuse aasade vahelt ja töö tagapoolele. Pane turvasilm paika ja kinnita seestpoolt.

Body: Add a bit of stuffing to the eye; attach the eyes to the top of the head with some sewing pins to find the right placement; sew the eyes to the head; Embroider the nose and mouth. *** Keha: Lisa natuke täidet silmadesse; kinnita silmad nööpnõeltega pea külge, et leida õige koht; õmble silmad pea külge; tiki nina ja suu.

Legs: starting the second toe - make a slip knot and leave it on the hook, insert the hook under both loops of third st, pull up a loop and make sc. After finishing toes you have 5 tails hanging out; thread the yarn into a needle and sew the holes shut between toes; hide the yarn tails inside the leg. *** Jalad: teise varba alustamine - tee ahelsimus ja jäta heegelnõelale, vii nõel läbi kolmanda silmuse mõlema aasa ja too aas läbi, et teha kinnissilmus. Pärast varvaste lõpetamist on lahtiselt viis lõngaotsa, aja lõngaotsad  nõelale, õmble kinni augud varvaste vahel, peida lõngaotsad jala sisse.

Assembly: Thread the yarn end into a needle you left after finishing the third toe; insert the needle through the tip towards inside and bring it up through the middle of the foot; fold the leg into half and sew through both sides with a couple of stitches. Attach the legs to the sides of the body with some sewing pins to find the right placement; sew the legs to the body along the lower part of the leg and along the toe edge that is close to the body. *** Kokku õmblemine: Aja kolmanda varba lõpetamisel jäänud lõngaots nõela taha ja too nõel jalalaba keskelt välja; murra jalg pooleks ja õmble mõne pistega läbi mõlema otsa, et jalg nagu kükitaks; kinnita jalad nööpnõeltega keha külge, et leida õige koht ning õmble kinni mööda alumist otsa ja varba äärt, mis puutub keha vastu.

Eestikeelne juhend


Oluline! Seda juhendit ei ole lubatud müüa. Võid jagada seda oma veebilehel või blogis, samuti võid selle juhendi järgi valminud mänguasju müüa. Tänutäheks juhendi eest palun viita minu kui autori veebilehele (http://smartapplecreations.com).

Oskused, mida vajad:
Võluring, kinnissilmus, heegeldamine ringselt, kasvatamine ja kahandamine.

Tarvikud ja materjalid:

- Roheline puuvillane peenike lõng (mina kasutasin Steinbach Wolle "Capri" , 50 g = 125 m)
- umbes meeter sama jämedat musta lõnga või mulineed
- Heegelnõel 2 mm
- pikliku pupilliga mänguasjade turvasilmad 10 mm
- polüester kerakiud või muu täitematerjal
- mõned nööpnõelad, sukanõel, käärid
 
Lühendid:
R - ring
(N) - silmuste arv ringis peale rea lõpetamist
ks -kinnissilmus
kasv - kasvatamine (tee 2 ks vastavasse silmusesse)
kasv3 - topelt kasvatamine (tee 3 ks vastavasse silmusesse)
kah - kahandamine (heegelda kaks ks kokku üheks)
Nks - tee üks ks järgmisse N silmusesse
[...] xN - korda kandilistes sulgudes olevat instruktsiooni selles reas N korda

Silmad (tee 2)
R1:
Võluring ja 6ks sellesse, tõmba kokku (6)
R2: [kasv] x6 (12)
R3 - R5: ks igasse silmusesse (12)
Katkesta lõng ja tee detailile puhas lõpetus. Pane turvasilm 3. ja 4. rea vahesse ja vajuta tagused kinni. Vaata ka juhendi pilte.

Keha
R1:
Võluring 6ks sellesse ja tõmba kokku (6)
R2:
[kasv] x6 (12)
R3:
[kasv, ks] x6 (18)
R4:
[2ks, kasv] x6 (24)
R5:
[ks, kasv, 2ks] x6 (30)
R6 - R13:
ks igasse silmusesse (30)
Lisa veidi täitematerjali silma sisse ja aseta silmad pea peale. Esialgu kinnita need nöönõeltega, et leida õige koht, seejärel õmble silmad pea külge. Kinnita lõng ja peida lõngaots keha sisse. Tiki musta lõngaga nina 3. ja 4. rea vahele ning suu 4. ja 8. rea vahele jättes suunurkade vahele 10 silmust. Vaata ka pilte.
R14: [kah, ks] x10 (20)
R15: [2ks, kah] x5 (15)
R16: [kah, ks] x5 (10)
Topi täitematerjal keha sisse (kasuta midagi teravat täitematerjali lisamiseks, näiteks kääriotsad) 
R17: [kah] x5 (5)
Lõpeta detail, aja lõng nõela taha ja tõmba auk kinni. Peida lõngaots keha sisse.

Jalad (tee 2)
R1: Võluring, 5ks sellesse ja tõmba kokku (5)
R2 - R11: ks igasse silmusesse (5)
R12: [kasv3] x5 (15)
R13: ks igasse silmusesse (15)
Alusta varvaste tegemist
Esimene varvas

R14: 2ks, jäta 10 silmust vahele, ks 13ndasse silmusesse, 2ks (5) jätka heegeldamist väiksel ringil
R15:
ks igasse silmusesse (5)
R16: [kah] x2, jäta viimane ks vahele (3) 
Lõpeta detail
Teine varvas

R14: tee ahelsilmus umbes 15 cm lõngaotsast, jäta see heegelnõelale, vii heegelnõel kolmanda silmuse alt läbi ja tõmba aas läbi silmuse, et teha kinnissilmus (vt ka pilte), 2ks, jäta vahele 5 silmust ja ks 11. silmusesse, ks (5) jätka heegeldamist väiksel ringil
R15:
ks igasse silmusesse (5)
R16:
[kah] x2, jäta viimane ks vahele (3)
Lõpeta detail

Kolmas varvas

R14: tee ahelsilmus umbes 15 cm lõngaotsast, jäta see heegelnõelale, vii heegelnõel kuuenda silmuse alt läbi ja tõmba aas läbi silmuse, et teha kinnissilmus, 4ks (5) jätka heegeldamist väiksel ringil
R15:
ks igasse silmusesse (5)
R16:
[kah] x2, jäta viimane ks vahele (3)
Lõpeta detail ja jäta umbes 30 cm lõngajupp õmblemiseks.

Kokkuõmblemine (vt pilte)

Pärast varvaste lõpetamist jääb viis lõngaotsa. Varvaste vahel olevad lõngaotsad aja nõela taha, õmble paari pistega varvaste vahel olev auk kinni ja peida lõngaotsad jala sisse. Aja esimese ja teise varba otsas olev lõngajupp nõela taha, nii nõel varbaotsast jala sisse. Lõika üleliigne lõngaots ära. 

Aja kolmanda varba lõpetamisel jäänud pikem lõngaots nõela taha, vii nõel varbaotsast sisse ja jalalaba keskelt välja. Voldi jalg pooleks ja õmble mõlemad pooled paari pistega alt otsast kinni. Jalg oleks justkui kükitavas asendis.

Kinnita jalad nööpnõeltega keha külge, et leida õige asend. Kui konn istub ilusti, õmble jalad alumist otsa mööda ning mööda keha vastas olevat varvast keha külge. Kinnita lõng ja peida lõngaotsad keha sisse.

Palju õnne, konnake Fred on valmis!


Kui Sulle meeldis see õpetus, siis jälgi mind ka Facebookis, et olla kursis minu viimaste tegemistega. Tahaksin väga näha ka Sinu tehtud konna, võid saata mulle pilte e-mailiga või jagada minu Facebooki lehel, et ka teised saaksid seda imetleda.

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